Inside Story: Can You Use Glycolic Acid With Azelaic Acid? Explained
The skincare world is a complex landscape filled with potent ingredients promising radiant, healthy skin. Two such ingredients, glycolic acid and azelaic acid, are frequently touted for their individual benefits. But can they be used together? This explainer breaks down the science behind these acids, explores their combined potential, and offers guidance on how to safely incorporate them into your skincare routine.
Who are Glycolic and Azelaic Acids For?
Glycolic acid is primarily for individuals seeking to address signs of aging, uneven skin tone, and texture irregularities. It's particularly beneficial for those with normal to oily skin types. Azelaic acid, on the other hand, is often recommended for individuals struggling with acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It is generally considered gentler and suitable for more sensitive skin types. Both ingredients are used by a wide demographic, ranging from teenagers battling acne to adults aiming to maintain a youthful complexion.
What are Glycolic and Azelaic Acids?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin easily, exfoliating the top layer of dead skin cells. This process, known as chemical exfoliation, reveals brighter, smoother skin and stimulates collagen production.
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid naturally found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It possesses anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties. It works by normalizing skin cell turnover, reducing inflammation, and inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots.
When Did These Acids Gain Popularity?
The use of acids in skincare has a long history. Cleopatra famously bathed in sour milk (containing lactic acid, another AHA) to improve her skin. Glycolic acid, however, gained significant traction in the late 20th century as dermatologists began recognizing its potent exfoliating properties. The 1990s saw a surge in AHA-based products as consumers sought effective solutions for wrinkles and blemishes.
Azelaic acid's popularity has grown more gradually. While it was synthesized in the late 19th century, its dermatological applications weren't fully explored until the late 20th century. Research highlighting its efficacy in treating acne and rosacea led to its inclusion in prescription and over-the-counter skincare formulations. In recent years, with increased awareness of its gentle yet effective nature, azelaic acid has become a staple in many skincare routines, especially for those with sensitive skin.
Where are Glycolic and Azelaic Acids Found?
Glycolic acid is commonly found in exfoliating cleansers, toners, serums, and peels. Concentrations typically range from 5% to 70%, with higher concentrations generally reserved for professional treatments. You can find them everywhere from drugstores to high-end beauty retailers, as well as online.
Azelaic acid is available in both prescription and over-the-counter formulations. Prescription strengths usually range from 15% to 20%, while over-the-counter products typically contain 10% or less. It's commonly found in creams, gels, and serums, and is widely available at pharmacies, beauty supply stores, and online retailers.
Why Use Them? And Why the Combination Question?
The appeal of glycolic acid lies in its ability to improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and even out skin tone. It's a powerful tool for achieving a brighter, more youthful complexion. Azelaic acid, on the other hand, offers a gentler approach to addressing acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. Its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties make it a valuable asset for sensitive skin.
The question of combining these acids arises because of their differing mechanisms of action and potential for irritation. Both are active ingredients that can increase skin sensitivity, particularly to the sun. Using them together *could* potentially lead to over-exfoliation, dryness, redness, and irritation. However, the potential synergistic benefits of addressing multiple skin concerns simultaneously make the combination appealing.
Can You Use Glycolic Acid With Azelaic Acid? The Answer:
The short answer is: *potentially, but with caution*. It's not a universally recommended combination and requires careful consideration of your skin type, tolerance, and the specific formulations of the products.
Here's a more nuanced breakdown:
- Skin Type and Sensitivity: Individuals with sensitive or easily irritated skin should exercise extreme caution or avoid combining these acids altogether. Those with oily or more resilient skin may be able to tolerate the combination with proper precautions.
- Concentration Matters: Lower concentrations of both acids are generally safer than higher concentrations. Start with products containing lower percentages and gradually increase if tolerated.
- Application Timing: Consider alternating the use of glycolic acid and azelaic acid on different days or at different times of the day (e.g., glycolic acid at night, azelaic acid in the morning). This reduces the likelihood of irritation.
- Buffer Time: If using both acids in the same routine, apply azelaic acid first, let it absorb for about 20-30 minutes, then apply glycolic acid. This buffer time allows the azelaic acid to work its magic first and can minimize irritation from the glycolic acid.
- Listen to Your Skin: Pay close attention to how your skin reacts. If you experience excessive dryness, redness, or irritation, discontinue use or reduce the frequency of application.
- Sun Protection is Crucial: Both glycolic and azelaic acids increase sun sensitivity. Daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher is essential, especially when using these ingredients.
- Increased Research: Further studies are needed to determine the optimal concentrations, application methods, and long-term effects of combining these acids.
- Advanced Formulations: Expect to see more products that incorporate these acids with soothing and hydrating ingredients to minimize irritation and enhance efficacy.
- Personalized Skincare: Advancements in diagnostic tools and AI-powered skincare analysis may allow for more personalized recommendations regarding the use of glycolic and azelaic acids based on individual skin needs and sensitivities.
- Educating Consumers: Increased awareness and education about the proper use of these acids are crucial to ensure safe and effective results. Dermatologists and skincare professionals will play a key role in guiding consumers through the complexities of combining these potent ingredients.
Current Developments and Research:
Research into the synergistic effects of combining glycolic and azelaic acids is ongoing. Some studies suggest that combining exfoliating agents with anti-inflammatory agents can enhance the overall effectiveness of skincare treatments. A 2018 study published in the *Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology* highlighted the potential benefits of combining azelaic acid with other topical treatments for acne. However, more research is needed to fully understand the long-term effects and optimal application strategies.
Furthermore, advancements in skincare formulations are leading to the development of products that combine these acids with soothing and hydrating ingredients, such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide, to mitigate potential irritation.
Likely Next Steps:
The future of glycolic and azelaic acid combinations likely involves:
In Conclusion:
While combining glycolic and azelaic acid can potentially offer enhanced benefits for certain skin concerns, it's crucial to approach this combination with caution. Understanding your skin type, starting with low concentrations, and prioritizing sun protection are essential steps. Consulting with a dermatologist or skincare professional is highly recommended before incorporating these acids into your routine, especially if you have sensitive skin or existing skin conditions. The key to success lies in careful monitoring, gradual introduction, and prioritizing your skin's overall health and well-being.
